Dragonomicon (The DoA Players Handbook)

[Dreddnawt Mettlehead]

Welcome to

Behold the Dragonomicon! This is the complete Players Guide for Dragons of Atlantis.

My intent here is to compile all the best Guides, Tutorials, and Q&As posted here on the forums into one easy to read resource.

This is a collection of posts submitted by players who have donated their time, effort and experience in order to improve the community and help others. If you feel there are other posts which warrant being added to this guide, please contact a Forum Moderator to have your submission reviewed.

I would like to take this opportunity to Thank You All for your selfless contributions. It is my goal to keep the original posts intact and insure the proper people get credit for their works. However, it will be necessary to edit some posts to adjust for changes to the system, out of date information, grammatical errors, format issues, and typos. I will do my best to not allow these changes to ruin the original intent of the authors. Again, Thanks to all of you who have made this Guide possible.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Helpful Links:

Dragons of Atlantis Game

Dragons of Atlantis Wiki Page
~ Wilderness
~ Anthropus Camps

Common Troubleshooting

Customer Care / Tech Support

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

DoA Terms and Jargon Translator:

Abbreviations:
AS - Ancestral Seal: These items are required to upgrade a Building to lvl 11 and 12.
ATs - Armored Transports: The advanced transport troop type. Level 6.
CG - Completion Grant: These items are required to upgrade a Building to lvl 10.
DoA - Dragons of Atlantis: Best game on Facebook.
BD - Battle Dragons: Advanced Dragon troop type. Level 7.
FM - Fire Mirrors: Advanced Ranged Attack troop type. Level 10.
FT - Fangtooths: Aquatic troop type trained exclusively in the Water Dragon Outpost.
GD - Great Dragon: Your city's primary defender.
GO - Granite Ogres: Stone troop type trained exclusively in the Stone Dragon Outpost.
LBM - Longbowmen: Basic Ranged Attack troop type. Level 4.
LJ - Lava Jaw: Fire troop type trained exclusively in the Fire Dragon Outpost.
MP - Muster Point: City building required to send troops on a march.
OP - Outpost: Player controlled secondary staging point for attacks.
OQ - Officer's Quarters: City building required to Appoint Generals.
RNG - Random Number Generator: This adjusts stat values and other factors in combat to produce more variable battle results.
SC - Science Center: City building where you perform all Research.
SD - Stone Dragon: The Great Dragon who protects your 2nd Outpost.
SDE - Stone Dragon Egg: Item needed to Create your 2nd Outpost.
SSD - Swift Strike Dragons: Basic Dragon troop type. Level 5.
WD - Water Dragon: The Great Dragon who protects your 1st Outpost.
WDE - Water Dragon Egg: Item needed to Create your 1st Outpost.

Jargon:
Ghosting: Sending attacks at a Player City then Recalling to trigger their Sentinel Warning and make them believe more attacks are coming then what is real.
Ping Attack: Sending an attack with only a single troop, normally used to discover defending troop counts.
RNG Monster: When you send Bowmen to Anthro territories and the Random Number Generator hits low and all your troops are killed.
Sanctuary: Feature in the Wall with which you can protect your troops from attack. This also leaves your city undefended by troops.
Scout: Sending Spies or a single troop to a target location to gather intel.
Spam Attacks: Sending multiple attack waves of a single troop each to a target location, usually for the purpose of scouting or farming items.
Wave Attacks: Sending multiple attack waves with a few thousand troops to a single location, usually for the purpose of farming resources or items.

Terms:
Castle (City): Your default View of the City and Field where you see your Fortress and Great Dragon is your Castle.
Cons - Conscripts: The most basic melee troop type. Level 1.
Bowmen (Bows) - Longbowmen: Basic Ranged Attack troop type. Level 4.
Fort - Fortress: Primary City building. Dictates city level, field plots, and wilderness slots.
Fangs - Fangtooths: The aquatic short ranged troops that can be made in lvl 10 Water Outpost Training Camps.
Gar(s) - Garrisons: Basic troop production building.
Hals - Halberdsmen: Pike-wielding melee troop type. Level 2.
Jaws - Lava Jaws: The high damage and long ranged troops that can be made in lvl 10 Fire Outpost Training Camps.
Minos - Minotaurs: Advanced standard melee troop type. Level 3.
Ogres - Granite Ogres: The high life defensive troops that can be made in lvl 10 Stone Outpost Training Camps.
Outpost: The City and Field Views, accessed through the Empire tab, that show your Water Dragon is the Outpost.
Swifts - Swift Strike Dragons: Basic Dragon troop type. Level 5.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

[COLOR="red"]This is, and always will be, a work in progress. I will continue to update this thread to keep it as accurate and current as possible. If you find any errors within this guide, please notify a Forum Moderator so it can be fixed. Thank You. [/COLOR]

[Nessy]

[SIZE="5"]Overlord for Dummies - A Guide to Alliances and Overlords[/SIZE]


Preamble

I really don't know why I am writing this - theoretically, I don't want other people to be good Overlords - I want them to suck at it and be ineffective. But I feel compelled to write it, so I will.

Strength in Numbers

One of the most important things to creating a strong Alliance, is to have a lot of members relatively early on so that you can be listed on the first page of the alliance list. One man alliances who recruit in chat are annoying and hard to pull off. Your best bet is to get a group of people to play the game with you and join your alliance. For me, I enlisted the aid of my co-workers, a bunch of US Marines. We all joined the game and created an alliance. This gave me 8 members and a leg up on 70% of alliances out there.

The next thing that is important, is to learn how to play the game. While this sounds stupidly obvious, being a good Overlord is half politics and management, and half guiding others on how to play. For this reason, it really helps to know the game, so that you can help and advise others on how to grow strong. Nothing makes an Overlord look sillier then not knowing basic things (like, "What does an Armored Transport do?"). Spend some time with others and in chat soaking up knowledge and asking questions before you decide to take your bid at Overlordship.



Jump Ship

So, now that you have a good grasp of game fundamentals, and a small, solid core of people to bolster your alliance numbers, you need to jump ship and join the next realm that opens. Why? Because you'll never be one of the big dogs in the alliance you started in - everyone has the advantage of time in game on you, and you aren't going to be able to come up through the ranks. By joining the next opening realm and taking your alliance with you (your friends only, at this point) you can skip to the first page because you're already established. Being on the first page is very important because most people who join alliances simply spam the Top5 or Top10 until someone lets them into their alliance. Being on the first page of the alliance list is crucial to having a successful alliance.


24/7

The time you can put into the game is extremely important, but especially so in the beginning of the game. The first week or so of game time is the most important, when the Top 10 is in flux and not yet set, because if a person applies to 10 alliances, the first person to accept him gets the new member. If you are only coming on once a day to play the game for 30 minutes and accept applicants, you aren't going to be recruiting very many players - all the more active alliance leaders will have already accepted them. Being in World Chat is also pretty important, as a lot of active members will hang out there. It's important that your alliance name is seen ande that you demonstrate that you're a friendly and knowledgeable person and overlord. Messaging people with no tags and asking them to join your alliance also can help you recruit (both in the game, around you and in chat) - just make sure your join messages have good spelling and grammar. While not essential, a lot of potential members are turned off by bad grammar and it can limit the success of your recruiting messages. Here's a sample recruitment message:

SUBJECT: Alliance?

MESSAGE: Hey [NAME HERE] - I was just scrolling the world looking for attack targets and noticed you didn't yet have an alliance. Alliances can be very beneficial because they offer strength in numbers as well as great source of information about the game. If you're interested in joining [ALLIANCE NAME] please let me know and submit an application, and I'll accept you.

-[YOUR NAME]
Overlord
[ALLIANCE NAME]

This is a good example of a recruitment letter because it answers the 'Why should I join an alliance?' question as well as implies you consider them a possible target if they don't join your alliance. But it's subtle.


Strategic Alliances

Hanging out in world chat is a great way to start alliances. If you're friendly and helpful and foster a sense of camaraderie, people are more likely to enter into an alliance with you. Cold messages - just sending a 'Would you like to ally with my alliance' request to people aren't going to work most of the time. With alliances, though, you need to be careful: consider when looking to ally your self with someone whether that alliance is beneficial to you, or is just going to limit your opportunities to farm. Personally, I don't like allying with anyone who isn't Top 10. Anyone below that, and I'm not really worried about them hitting me, because my alliance tag should be protection enough.

Also consider the type of alliance you enter into: the Non-Aggressive Alliance, or the Mutual Aid Alliance. Non-Aggressive alliances basically just state you won't hit their member and their members won't hit your members. It's a good way of keeping people safe. Mutual Aid is where you pledge to bring your alliance into any war that the friendly alliance enters into... this type of alliance can be very destructive to your alliance. Make sure the Overlords are level headed and cool tempered, and not the type to jump into wars at the drop of a hat, or you'll find your members frequently under attack. In order to keep in touch with your allies' overlords, you may want to consider creating a Facebook Group and adding them all. Encourage them to add their allies as well, and you may soon find the number of alliances you have increasing. These meetings can also be a good place to exchange info and strategies and learn of beneficial game glitches.


Organization

One of the most important aspects of an Overlord is the ability to organize things. In this case, we mean breaking down what will eventually be a 120 man monster into manageable proportions. In order to do this, we'll turn to the military for some advice. In the military, groups of people are broken down into units - one of the most basic unit is the squad. A squad typically consists of 8-13 people, with one person in charge. For you, this means picking out responsible individuals to lead a group of people. If you joined with a group of your friends or co-workers, then you have a bunch of ready made Squad Leaders. It helps that you actually know them, and know where they live . It can also make things easier if you appoint your core group as Lords and assign them jobs - Minister of Intelligence, Minister of Diplomacy, etc. This frees you up to enjoy the game and makes being Overlord less of a burden. Just make sure you can trust your friends and they aren't going to be acting immature.

But in any case, having Excel will come in extremely handy here. Make up a roster of all of your people and their power. Then, starting from the top, put one person under each squad leader starting from the top and working your way down. This ensures that your squads are balanced and have an even distribution of power. Each squad will have a 'strong' person to help manage retals and the like. If you like, you can post the list to GoogleDocs or on your main FB Group page. You should let the squad leader name their squad - they can let their members suggest stuff/vote on it, or just pick one.


Squads

Squads are important because they act as a buffer between you and everyone in your alliance. Instead of everyone coming to you with all of their problems, they can go to their Squad Leader with them. If the squad leader can solve even half of their problems, its less work for you. There are several additional benefits to squads, besides less hassle on your end: they foster camaraderie and a sense of self. It also serves to insulate the flow of information to spies. If you wind up in the top 10, you are inevitably going to have to deal with spies in your alliance. People's alts that are placed in your alliance to get your info, wild locations, war plans, etc. There isn't anything you can do about spies without hampering your ability to get new members, so it's just best to assume you have a spy and try to minimize their influence. By splitting everyone down into squads, you can limit the amount of information available to them because you relay the orders to the squad leaders, and then the squad leaders pass it to the squad. You have no need to mass message the alliance with the info and thus compromise everyone's marching orders. Some people are also social creatures, and care more about being part of a group then they do about being #1 in the game. Having a group of people to talk to will satisfy these people.

[Nessy]

Squad Implementation

Earlier, I explained how to break down an existing alliance into squads. But how do you actually implement it in game? One way is to create a Facebook Group for each squad. You should create the squad, then add your friend as an Administrator to the squad. You create the squad so that if your Squad Leader gets bored and quits playing, you have access to the Group and can remove them and appoint another individual. It's best to set the group as Secret, again to contain information. Once you've created a squad for each of your squad leaders, message them and give them the list of their squad members. Have each of them contact their squad members and get them to add them as Friends on Facebook and then add them to the group. This process will also allow you to check for obvious alt accounts - people with no facebook profile and no real pictures of themselves, and only gaming posts on their wall. While some people have 'game' FB accounts, it is a pretty real indicator of a possible spy so make sure to look for this. Before your squad leaders start contacting people, it's a good idea to message the entire alliance and let them know that someone will be contacting them shortly and that this person will be their new squad leader.




Inactive Members

It is inevitable that people will grow bored with the game and stop playing. Currently, there are no tools to indicate the last time a person has played the game, so your best bet is to do a 'power check'. To do a powercheck, announce to your alliance that you will be taking a screen shot of the Members List, and that anyone who hasn't changed power in three days time will be removed from the alliance for being inactive. Then, go to the Members tab in your alliance and sort it by power (that's if the ability to sort by power has been fixed..). If not, open up your excel spreadsheet and update the power of everyone that you made earlier. You can also take Screen Shots of the members list (by hitting the Print Screen button and then pasting it into paint - for Mac users its Command+shift+3) as opposed to writing it in excel. If the ability to sort is still broken, then Excel is your best bet. Come back three days later and then record everyone's power again. Those that removed, message them and tell them why they were kicked and then kick them. Regular power checks are important because they remove inactive players who aren't contributing and prevents others from thinking you're a farm alliance because of all the inactive players in it. In the beginning, you aren't going to want to kick anyone as they provide you with more power, but towards the end of the game, you will.


War

Eventually, you'll probably be forced to declare war with another alliance. It happens no matter the diplomacy you have - maybe an alliance has been hitting your members too much, or talking smack. It will eventually come down to the point where you need to enter into a hostile state with another group. The most important thing for you to tell your alliance is to hide their troops in sanctuary. While some view this as cowardly, if you're playing the game correctly, you should be raiding for almost all of your income, and losing all your troops torpedoes your ability to grow. Hide the troops and you have the ability to attack others and gather resources.

The other thing you should do is utilize your squads. You constructed them, and now they should almost run themselves. Break down the world into chunks. Lets say you had 10 squads, as an example. Give the first squad 0,0 - 0,75. Give the second squad 0,75 - 0,150. Etc etc. Within the squad, each squad leader assigns an 8 section chunk to a member for them to scan. IE, 0-8, 9-17, 17-25, etc. All they have to do is scroll over and record any enemy cities they see. In this way, you canquickly get all of the enemy's co-ords and build a target list. Assign targets to each squad and let the squad deal with each enemy. The biggest person in the squad 'breaks' the target of troops and then everyone else in the squad farms it until they warp. Then you change to the next target, etc. Continue until the war ends.


Democracy

It is always good to ask your members their opinion on things, as it gives them the sense that they have an effect on where the alliance is going and are able to impact its future. Are your considering going to war or ending one? Ask you squad leaders to poll their squads and get you the results. You don't always have to follow popular opinion (they aren't going to know how the rest of the alliance voted, only their own squad.. ) but it can't hurt to know it.

[Dreddnawt Mettlehead]

----------

Spies are my favourites, they are my eyes and ears:

When attacking a player they are always first in the field, without them you are blind:
To set up a spying mission you don't have to send a general with them, however they take a march slot!

Stats:

Melee/Defense: 5 (no ranged attack)
Life: 10
Speed: 3000 (the are extremly fast 3x SSD or 4x BD speed)
Upkeep: 5
Clairvoyance (Researched at Science Center lvl1-10)

Training

Spies are trained pretty fast they don't need much resources per unit, only need a lvl2 Garrison or Training Camp and lvl 1 Clairvoyance.
They won't make much use until lvl 5 Clairvoyance: the higher the tech is the more details you will find out I'd recommend to research to lvl 8 (9 preferably of course)
This is the point when you get exact details of defndeing troops and amount of resources except gold (you never know how much gold the defender has)
Lvl 10 Clairvoyance seems to work properly these days.

I experienced that spies are affected by Metallurgy, Medicine, Rapid Deployment and Walls too (Dredd reported extreme unbalance on the defensive side, like losing 9K spies to 150).

You may ask why all these important for a spy they won't fight any time soon: beleive me they will. And here comes the point of the whole:

Spies are countering spies! <- what would that mean?

Whenever you set up a defensive force and order some spies to defend it means you have a chance to resist enemy spying on your property:
Once my city was spied by 610 -> I quickly set up a defence with 1000 spies guess what happened: (My Clairv: lvl 9 enemy Clairv: lvl 7)
All the attackers spies were dead and I lost none of mine! Surprised? I was too, I decided to do some testing on spies and found out:
I spied an enemy city with 800 spies where he had 30 spies countering and I lost 13 of my most precious units. (My Clairv: lvl 9 enemy Clairv: lvl 2)

I got the conclusion: while spying defender takes initiative (or at least defender hits first regardless of battlefield size and research lvls)

You may set up a defensive force of mixed troops with spies: doing so will result the enemy spying mission to be countered only by your spies.
Enemy may lose and not know what is exactly defending: only a few K spies or 90K BDs there?
To work around that he has to ping attack you (a standard attack with some cheap cannonfodders) to find out your defences (but he still wont know the resources you hold)

The cheapest and less risky way of gaining intel is to send out 1 spy normal spying mission and 1 spy in standard attack!

The primary goal of defensive spies is to hide resources and disorient attackers troops, however I'd not recommend to remain in defense while offline as it might end up losing all your troops to large attackers.

Defensive spies are good against mid lvl players who won't dare to attack when they don't know exact defenses.

Spying on anthropus

The Anthropus equivalent of spies are Stenches. Wilds and Camps from lvl2 include stenches and they will counter your spies. It is not very wise to spy on them unless you are prepaired to lose a few K spies on higher lvl camps and wilds. You can easily find out spying on them makes no sense at all: Camps cannot be held by players so you may know what to attack with. Clicking on wilds always displays the onwer of the wild if it has any...

[COLOR="#0000FF"]Note: Also, the troop counts for Wilds and Camps are listed later in this Guide.[/COLOR]

Alternative use and special notes

Alternative use of of spies include ping and spam attacking. Use them for quick hits on empty camps and wilds to farm for item drops.

I have to admit that I never sent a standard attack with spies mixed in but I don't think it is a good idea as spies have extremely weak combat stats.

I usually train a few K spies they will do their job and no more is needed in standard circumstances.

All in all spies are great when used properly!

Any questoins, comments or notices are absolutely welcome

[Dreddnawt Mettlehead]

First you need to know that you can gather more of any resource then your Production Capacity using Trades and Raiding. When you have more than your Capacity, your Fields will stop producing that resource.

This is why I suggest concentrating on Food. When you are finished building your city and have a good sized army, the loot you win from raiding will most likely keep you over your capacity for Wood, Metal and Stone. Therefore, any Mills, Mines, and Quarries you have wont do any good because production will be halted. Food, though, will never stop producing because your army will always be eating it. So ultimately the Farms will be the only Field building you can keep active all the time.

No matter the specialty builds, if you choose to use one, it is a good idea to ALWAYS keep at least 1 of every Field type. Even when you arent using those extra buildings, they are required for some Research and you never know what changes to the game may make them absolutely essential. So keeping at least one of each is just good planning.

A Specialty Build is just a way of saying you turn most your Field buildings to produce a certain type or resource. These builds should ALWAYS be done using Mass Nullifiers later in the game as you will require at least some of every resource in the beginning stages and wont be able to rely on Attacks and Trading to provide you with what you need. It is wise to decide early what kind of Field build you want to ultimately have so you can plan ahead to minimize the amount of Nullifiers it takes to disintegrate and rebuild your Fields.

Experienced Players usually turn to Specialty Builds because, later in the game, you will commonly have millions of resources stockpiled at all times which shuts your production down completely unless you properly focus your Fields and constantly sell off excess. Even with 35 Field buildings of a single Resource type, your max capacity before production stops is 15.8mil. That may seem like a lot to new players but it is a trivial amount to veterans. I use that much Wood starting 1 queue of Giants. You can always choose to vary your Field types but, as mentioned above, most of your buildings wont produce anything when you have excess.

So the popular Specialty Builds are Full Food, Full Wood, Full Metal, and Wood/Metal. The Full builds just mean you have 35 of one type, with 1 each of the others. The Wood/Metal build is the least popular because it cuts your Cap down to 7.7mil of each. This means you must have LESS than that in order to continue producing and youll want to have MORE than that in order to queue new troops. There is no Full Stone Specialty Build because Stone is relatively worthless past your first few weeks.

Lastly, The final Specialty Build is Null. That is when you remove all your production buildings to free up Population that is normally used as your Labor Force. Doing this allows you to keep higher Population numbers for Training and get rid of more Houses to make room for additional Garrisons. This further decreases Training time but forces you to rely completely on Pillaging for your resource needs.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Game Progression Resource Summary:
- Your Field will max out, with a lvl 9 Fortress, at 35 open spots (38 with a lvl 10 Fort). A good starting point for most players is to shoot for 18 Farms, 7 Mills, 7 Mines, and 4 Quarries. I recommend a starting build of 22 / 5 / 5 / 3 for more experienced players. This will enable you to make an easier transition to the full Food build later on without the need for dozens of Mass Nullifiers. If you arent planning on using a Food Specialty Build, you can switch the numbers to suit what you will be focusing on and keep the same ratios.

- What resources you need most will change as you progress through the game. Changing the type of Wildernesses you control is a much easier way to manage these changes then disintegrating and rebuilding.

- You will need primarily Stone and Lumber to start building your city. In these initial stages, buildings upgrade fast and resources come slow. Sometimes you just need to be patient. Make upgrading Quarries and Lumbermills a priority, but don't forget about Farms and Mines.

- You will soon find you need a lot of Gold for research and Food for your blossoming army. By this stage you should have decent resource production and you'll start being able to offset it through attacking players, wilds and anthropus. Try to stick to attacking wilds and inactive players so you don't end up picking a fight you're not ready for.

- Eventually your need for Stone will drop off while your need for the other materials continues to increase. Managing your Wildernesses becomes more important and you may find the need to begin demolishing your first Quarries to make room.

- As you near finishing the upgrades to your city and researching is completed, you will find Gold and Stone are now all but worthless to you. The need for more Food is a constant monkey on your back but Lumber and Metal have leveled out. Remove the last Quarries you have and get rid of all but a couple Mills and Mines. Don't forget your Wilds, you'll probably have a few Mountains and Forests but will mostly be holding Lakes and Savannas.

- You are now primarily a Militant State with Food production maxed and what needs you have for other resources being fed solely through the plunder your armies bring home. Your Field has 32-36 Farms leaving little space for Mills and Mines. All your Wildernesses are now lvl 9 or 10 Lakes and Savannas. When you reach this point you wont need much of the other resources and what you do need will be easily farmed from other cities and Anthropus Camps.

Go Forth and Conquer!!!

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

While this went on a LOT longer than I expected when I sat down and hit Reply, I hope this helps some players get a perspective on what you're going to face and how to prepare your resources fields for the long-haul. I know, if I had this kind of info when I started out I would have done things VERY differently. But as it is, I got to learn from my own blunders and am now making a fresh start on a new server.

Happy Gaming all.

[Firefly]

Finally! After domain hopping and filling up my notebook, I finished what I've dubbed as the Book of Power. It will tell you exactly how much power you will gain for every upgrade of every building.
Let me know if I've missed anything or fudged any of the numbers. Thanks!
*Note*
Below each group is the amount of power you would get for one building at level 9 in total for each upgrade which coincidentally adds up to what you gain for a level 10 building, so with a Completion Grant that amount would be doubled.
Enjoy~


Farms/Lumbermills/Mines/Quarries

Level 1- 4
Level 2- 4
Level 3- 8
Level 4- 16
Level 5- 32
Level 6- 64
Level 7- 128
Level 8- 256
Level 9- 512
Level 10- 1024

One building=1024, 2048 with Completion Grants

Homes/Garrisons

Level 1- 10
Level 2- 10
Level 3- 20
Level 4- 40
Level 5- 80
Level 6- 160
Level 7- 320
Level 8- 640
Level 9- 1280
Level 10- 2560

One building=2560, 5,120 with Completion Grants

Factory/Rookery/Storage Vault/Metalsmith/Sentinel

Level 1- 20
Level 2- 20
Level 3- 40
Level 4- 80
Level 5- 160
Level 6- 320
Level 7- 640
Level 8- 1280
Level 9- 2560
Level 10- 5120

One building=5120 total, 10,240 with Completion Grants

Theater/Officer's Quarters/Muster Point/Science Center

Level 1- 30
Level 2- 30
Level 3- 60
Level 4- 120
Level 5- 240
Level 6- 480
Level 7- 960
Level 8- 1920
Level 9- 3840
Level 10- 7680

One building=7680 total, 15,360 with Completion Grants

Fortress/Dragon's Keep/Wall

Level 2- 100
Level 3- 100
Level 4- 200
Level 5- 400
Level 6- 800
Level 7- 1600
Level 8- 3200
Level 9- 6400
Level 10- 12800

One=12800, 25,600 with Completion Grants

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvv
[COLOR="#0000FF"]Player Power Levels:[/COLOR]

Level 1 || First Citizen || Power 0

This is the default title of all starting players.

Level 2 || Warden || Power 20

Achieving leadership in your area of the City is the first step to higher office. You will not lose your Title, even if your power goes down.

Level 3 || High Warden || Power 40

Achieving greater leadership in your area of the City is the next step to higher office. You will not lose your Title, even if your power goes down.

Level 4 || Commissioner || Power 80

Although it's a low visibility position, becoming Commissioner will give you deep access to the intelligence gathering community of the City. A necessity for ultimate Power.

Level 5 || Provost || Power 160

Return to the political realm with your newfound contacts and understanding of the political machinations of the City. More Power is required.

Level 6 || Marshal Provost || Power 320

Continue your political advancement as a higher level Provost. This will expand your sphere of influence. Seek the Power.

Level 7 || High Provost || Power 640

The High Provost commands the Marshal Provosts and directs their activity. This is an important next step in your career. Find the Power.

Level 8 || Lictor || Power 1,280

As Lictor, you are responsible for carrying out any covert operations directed by the Imperator. No one must learn you are a Lictor. This position earns respect and fear.

Level 9 || Captain || Power 2,560

Return to a visible career in the military by advancing to Captain. A well-rounded background is required for you to reach your ultimate goal.

Level 10 || Centurion || Power 5,120

You are making great strides in your military career. A sure way to ultimate Power. Once you have achieved a title you will not lose it, even if your Power goes down.

Level 11 || Commander || Power 10,240

Continue on your path to military prominence, and earn even more prestigious titles.

Level 12 || High Commander || Power 20,480

To hold the title of High Commander requires a high confidence of the military. Aqcuire more power to achieve this goal.

Level 13 || Legate || Power 40,960

As a Legate, you will command a legion and assist the Generals. A lofty position, indeed.

Level 14 || Elder || Power 81,920

Assuming some political responsibility again advances your position and prestige. You will not lose your Title, even if your Power goes down.

Level 15 || Alderman || Power 163,840

Extending your political clout with a strong military background is an excellent next step.

Level 16 || Mayor || Power 327,680

Higher political office brings more power. You will not lose your Title, even if your power goes down.

Level 17 || Viceroy || Power 655,360

As a Viceroy you will both political and military responsibilities. Excellent. Acquire more power.

Level 18 || Prefect || Power 1,310,720

An elected position in the High Government provides additional leverage to your career.

Level 19 || Councilor || Power 2,621,440

As a Councilor, you will add some judicial experience to your political and military backgrounds.

Level 20 || Arbiter || Power 5,242,880

The judicial path is opening up for you. Becoming an Arbiter adds an aura of wisdom to your persona. Seek it out.

Level 21 || Ombudsman || Power 10,485,760

More prestigious that an Arbiter, as an Ombudsman you’ll be seen to represent the views of the people. A valuable step.

Level 22 || Adjudicator || Power 20,971,520

An Adjudicator provides legal ruling in the courts. This will be a true expansion of your power.

Level 23 || Magistrate || Power 41,943,040 [COLOR="#0000FF"]<- Highest Attained to Date[/COLOR]

A Magistrate has wider authority than an Adjudicator. Pursue this career path.

Level 24 || Pro Magistrate || Power 83,886,080

A Pro Magistrate extends your judicial authority. Follow this opportunity.

Level 25 || Judge || Power 167,772,160

A Judge carries more prestige. Acquire more power.

Level 26 || Justice || Power 335,544,320

As a justice your tenure is unassailable. Increase your power and get appointed.

Level 27 || Chief Justice || Power 671,088,640

Become the second most powerful of all Justices.

Level 28 || Tribune || Power 1,342,177,280

Your Judicial accomplishments and military career position you well for higher political office, representing the interests of the people.

Level 29 || Supreme Justice || Power 2,684,354,560

As Supreme Justice you will carry the highest judicial Title for life. It is a great honor, and should be pursued.

***Supreme Justice is the very last level of the game!.***

[Storm Johanna]

In Windows XP
1) Find out what key(s) on your keyboard you need to press to take a screenshot. It may be just pressing PrintScreen, PrtScrn, or pressing Fn or Ctrl then pressing another key.

2) Press the screenshot keyboard shortcut that your keyboard uses to take a screenshot.(On the page that you want to take a screenshot.)

3) Open Microsoft Paint or Microsoft Word. To do this, click Start > All Programs > Accessories > Paint. Click inside the white part of the screen

4) Go to the Edit menu and click Paste or you can press and hold "Ctrl" and tap V. Then you may crop if you like.

5) Click File > Save As. In the box that pops up, change the "Save As Type" to PNG or JPG. Type in a filename for your image. Choose a place to save, like the Desktop, and click save.

6) If you want to send your image to somebody, simply attach the .png file that you just saved to an email and send it along. Alternatively, you can upload it onto the internet by visiting a site like TinyPic.com and uploading it.


In Windows Vista
1) In Windows Vista (except in Home Basic), there is a tool called the Snipping Tool.
To open it, click on the start menu, type snip, then hit enter (the latest version of Windows Vista updates the search results as you type each letter).

2) Click on Snipping Tool.

3) The Snipping Tool opens, and a white mask is applied on the screen. In the drop-down menu for the 'New' button, choose from a free-form snip, rectangular snip, window snip, or full-screen snip.

4) In free-form snip mode, draw around the area you want to be captured. Drag a rectangle in rectangular snip mode. For window snip mode, select the window you want to capture. In full-screen mode, just selecting it from the drop-down menu makes the capture.

5) The snipped image is then opened within the Snipping Tool, but is also copied to the Windows clipboard for use in other applications.


In Windows 7
If you want to take screenshots in Windows 7 it comes with little program called Snipping Tool, which can be found in the Start Menu/All Programs/Accessories.

You can take a screenshot of the entire screen, a window or just a selection of the screen, that you select.

In Windows 7, you can also take a screenshot by pressing Alt, Print Screen. You must hold down alt when you press print screen. I think this is easier to take a screenshot than the snipping tool if you want the whole screen.

--
[COLOR="blue"]EDIT: Bit of additional info from the Kabam Team:[/COLOR]

Screen shot instructions:

To take a screen shot on PC:

1) Find out which key(s) on your keyboard you need to press to take a screen shot. It may be just pressing PrintScreen, PrtScrn, or pressing Fn or Ctrl accompanied by then pressing another key.
2) Press the screen shot keyboard shortcut that your keyboard uses to take a screen shot. (On the page that you want to take a screen shot of)
3) Open Microsoft Paint. To do this, click Start > All Programs > Accessories > Paint. Click inside the white part of the screen.
4) Go to the Edit menu and click Paste or you can press and hold “Ctrl” and tap V. Then you may crop if you like.
5) Click File > Save As. In the box that pops up, change the “Save As Type” to PNG or JPG. Type in a filename for your image. Choose a place to save, like the Desktop, and click save.

To take a screen shot on an Apple:

To capture the entire desktop, press Command-Shift-3. The screen shot will be automatically saved as a PNG file on your desktop.

[Storm Johanna]

Power Per Troop

Porter - 1 Power
Conscripts - 1 Power
Spy - 2 Power
Halberdsman - 2 Power
Minotaurs - 3 Power
Longbowman - 4 Power
Swift Strike Dragon - 5 Power
Battle Dragon - 7 Power
Armored Transport - 6 Power
Giant - 9 Power
Fire Mirror - 10 Power
[COLOR="blue"]Fangtooths - 10 Power
Granite Ogres - 9 Power
Lava Jaws - 8 Power[/COLOR]


Food per troop per hour:

Porter - 2
Conscript - 3
Spy - 5
Halberdsman - 6
Minotaur - 7
Long Bowman - 9
Swift Strike Dragon - 18
Battle Dragons - 35
Armored Transport - 10
Giant - 100
Fire Mirror - 250

Power to food ratio:

Porter - 0.50
Conscript - 0.33
Spy - 0.40
Halberdsman - 0.33
Minotaur - 0.43
Long Bowman - 0.44
Swift Strike Dragon - 0.28
Battle Dragons - 0.20
Armored Transport - 0.60
Giant - 0.09
Fire Mirror - 0.04

Why does this matter?
If all you want to do is raise your power rating, then pick a unit that has a high power-to-food ratio. This may or not be a good strategy if you want to participate in wars. I'm just throwing it out there. One LVL9 Farm gives 4500 bushels of food an hour (ignoring tech, wild, and nano upgrades). This can support 45 giants or 500 Long Bowman. The giants will give you 405 power. The LBs will give you 2500 power. IF you have plenty of resources for building troops and are more concerned with feeding them, you might choose the LBs.

[Dreddnawt Mettlehead]

WHY DO I KEEP LOSING DRAGONS EVEN WHEN I WIN BATTLES OVERWHELMINGLY?

Mixed Player Army vs Mixed Army -
[COLOR="blue"]M = Minos, L = Longbowmen, B = Battle Dragons, G = Giants,[/COLOR] [COLOR="green"]E = Enemy Melee, R = Enemy Ranged[/COLOR]

1) [COLOR="blue"]> MBGL ----- -----[/COLOR] [COLOR="green"]----- ----- REE <[/COLOR] // Battle Starts.
2) [COLOR="blue"]> -G-ML--- --B--- -----[/COLOR][COLOR="green"] --E-E-R- <[/COLOR] // Units move to close distance.
3) [COLOR="blue"]> --G--ML- ----- -----B[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]E -E---R- <[/COLOR] // BDs engage long before others. BDs take damage from enemies.
4) [COLOR="blue"]> ---G-L- -M---- -----B[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]EE ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs now engaged against the ENTIRE enemy army. Longbows have stopped and are firing on Enemy Melee.
5) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L-G ---M-- -----B[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]EE ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs still engaged, taking damage.
6) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- -G----M -----B[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]EE ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs still engaged, taking damage.
7) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- --G--- --M---B[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]EE ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs still engaged, taking damage.
8) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- ---G-- ----M-B[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]EE ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs still engaged, taking damage.
9) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- -----G -----MB[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]eE ----R- <[/COLOR] // Minos finally arrive. Minos add damage to enemy but arent a high enough priority target to draw fire from BDs.
10) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- ----- -G----MB[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]E ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs and Minos still engaged, BDs taking damage.
11) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- ----- --G---MB[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]E ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs and Minos still engaged, BDs taking damage.
12) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- ----- ---G--MB[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]E ----R- <[/COLOR] // BDs and Minos still engaged, BDs taking damage.
13) [COLOR="blue"]> ----L- ----- -----GMB[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]e ----R- <[/COLOR] // Giants finally join the fight, just in time to kill remaining melee.
14) [COLOR="blue"]> ----- -L---- ----- -G-M--B[/COLOR][COLOR="green"]R- <[/COLOR] // BDs move ahead again to engage the Enemy Ranged units.
15) [COLOR="blue"]> ----- ---L-- ----- --G--MBr- <[/COLOR] // Minos arrive to add damage and finish off Ranged.

In this example you can see how the BDs spend much of the battle doing the work themselves while waiting for the supporting Giants and Minos to catch up. Your BDs are NOT dieing because they are a weak or flawed unit, they are dieing because they are superheroes being left to fight impossible odds alone.

What you are seeing with mixed battles losing BDs is the dragons are up front taking damage from the ENTIRE enemy army while your other units are creeping across the battle field that has been extended due to your bowmen. The Giants especially take a long time to get to the front. So your BDs are doing all the work, your bowmen help with some dps but really just spread your army out even more, and the Minos arent powerful enough to draw enemy targeting away from the high threat dragons. In the end, your Minos and Giants help mop up the troops the BDs have been fighting the whole time.

Summarily:
BDs are hands down MY FAVORITE unit. I cant say enough good things about them. Those nasty little dragons are my bread and butter. Never stop building BDs. They are statistically the BEST unit in the game: they are 2nd in Atk only to Giants and massive numbers of Minos; they have the best cumulative defense by a large margin and you can only find a better single troop defense from Giants; their Life is again the cumulative highest of any troop type and is only beaten singly by Giants; their speed is only matched by other dragons; and their Load is only beaten by Swifts and ATs. So aside from Range, they come out 1st or 2nd in most every aspect. Overall, they are the statistically best unit.

For most cases, when it comes to mixing Dragons in with regular troops I would simply say DONT. You really have to plan your army to use BDs effectively in a mixed group. I wont give out advanced tactics since I concentrate on helping newbies and letting experienced players sort things out themselves so youll have to do some testing with different numbers to get it just right. I suggest using small armies of 100 or 1000 total troops rather then using trial and error on your whole army. But a good start to combining BDs into a mixed army for PvP is to have 35-50% BDs or more so they can handle taking the brunt of the damage throughout the battle. A good 10-20% Minos to bridge the gap between the Dragons and Giants help also. The LBMs can help provide ranged damage, but they will also leave the BDs exposed longer.

Use mostly BDs in a mixed army and take on targets the BDs could potentially kill alone so they are capable of withstanding prolonged attacks, otherwise segregate your army. Mixing in dragons essentially relegates your other troops to being Dragon support but it can work. Giants dont help Dragons much when Ranged troops are in play. There are a lot of ways to use mixed armies but adding dragons to regular troops, especially ranged troops, can be disastrous if you arent careful.

[Dreddnawt Mettlehead]

Aside from their statistical differences, Great Dragons all perform the same. They move and behave similarly in combat and give the same 5% per lvl bonus to accompanying troops during attacks. The bonus to Troops that accompany your GD increases only the Atk value for those troops. It does not give any bonus to other troop stats. As the Devs said, it "strengthens" troops.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
Obtaining and Growing your Great Dragons:
Great Dragons are gained automatically by starting new cities and outposts in Atlantis. Each new player begins with a Dragons Keep in their main Castle that has a Dragons Egg colored to match their chosen Ancestral Tribe. Simply Upgrading the Dragons Keep like any other building will upgrade your Dragon. The resulting Great Dragons are identical, only the initial Egg color is affected by race.
~ Primus have Blue Dragon Eggs
~ Solerian have Yellow Dragon Eggs
~ Amazon have Red Dragon Eggs
~ Zolmec have Green Dragon Eggs

Additional Dragons are obtained when you find Dragon Eggs in wilderness locations. To find these items see the guide here: Anthropus Item Drops Guide. After Creating your Outpost, you will have a new Dragons Keep reflecting the element of the Outpost it occupies. Just as with your Great Dragon in the Castle, upgrading your Dragons Keep in the Outpost will upgrade your Outpost Dragon.



vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
Some quick notes on Great Dragons:
~ Your Great Dragons CANNOT Die!! They can be hurt and will need time to heal, but they will always recover and can never be killed.

~ Great Dragons ALWAYS Defend!! Even if you Sanctuary your troops the GD still defends. Even injured Dragons will attempt to defend, though they wont be as effective.

~ Great Dragons are NOT counter-spies. Your GD will not defend against being Spied on by another player. You must have Spies and be Defending to prevent being Spied.

~ Great Dragons get bonuses from Aerial Combat, Weapons Calibration, Rapid Deployment, and Dragonry research. But they DO NOT get benefits from Metallurgy nor Medicine. [COLOR="#0000FF"]Note: Verifying this has been near impossible and Devs wont confirm or deny so Im still working on proving this beyond a doubt.[/COLOR]

~ Great Dragons can be sent on attacks along with your other troops once you have upgraded the Dragons Keep to lvl 8, Researched Aerial Combat lvl 1, and found all 4 pieces of its Dragon Armor.

~ Troops sent on Attack with a Great Dragon receive an additional bonus to their Attack stats of 5% per level of the Dragons Keep up to 50% Atk bonus with a lvl 10 Dragon. This bonus applies only when Attacking.

~ Great Dragons are now required to find Elemental Dragon Eggs and Armor in Wilderness Territories. Simply send your Great Dragon along with the attack to have a chance for the drops.

~ Great Dragons sent on an attack have a default "Recovery Time" associated with their use. This will appear as them Healing after an attack even when they havent taken damage. The Great Dragon in your main Castle has the lowest Recovery times of any Dragon.

~ Aerial Combat significantly reduces the Healing/Recovery time needed for your Great Dragon in the Castle and gives a 5% per level Attack bonus to all Great Dragons, but does not influence other stats.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
The Five Dragons:
[COLOR="green"]The Great Dragon - This behemoth is the first line of defense for your Main Castle. Your Great Dragon is the ever vigilant Keeper of your main Castle.[/COLOR]

__________________________________________________ __________________________

[COLOR="blue"]The Water Dragon - This aquatic drake has higher Atk and Speed then your Great Dragon. The Water Dragon is the stalwart Warden of your Water Outpost.[/COLOR]

__________________________________________________ __________________________

[COLOR="#696969"]The Stone Dragon - This defensive juggernaut has considerably more damage output and Life then any other Great Dragon. It is the stoic Guardian of your Stone Outpost.[/COLOR]

__________________________________________________ __________________________

[COLOR="#B22222"]The Fire Dragon - Your Fire Dragons Ranged Attack is unmatched by any other. This fire breathing brute is the valiant Protector of your Fire Outpost.[/COLOR]

__________________________________________________ __________________________

[COLOR="#DAA520"]The Wind Dragon - Your Wind Dragon is the fastest Dragon by far and its Melee Attack is devastatingly lethal. This nimble creature is the attentive Sentinel of your Wind Outpost.[/COLOR]


vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
Great Dragon Statistics Explained:

Melee (Attack):
This represents the amount of damage the troops can do to enemies at Melee (0) Range. Great Dragons only use this stat when calculating damage to enemies at Melee Range, the Ranged stat is used against any troop farther then 0 distance.
[COLOR="#0000FF"]Note: This Stat is affected by the Random Number Generator during battles. Actual Damage is a variable number up to the stat value.[/COLOR]

Ranged (Attack):
This represents the amount of damage the Great Dragon can do to enemy troops at Range (distance > 0). When your Dragon has enemies within its Range but farther than 0 Range, it will use this stat for damage instead of the Melee stat. Also dont confuse "Ranged" with "Range." Ranged is a damage stat, Range is the distance it can attack from.
[COLOR="#0000FF"]Note: This Stat is affected by the Random Number Generator during battles. Actual Damage is a variable number up to the stat value.[/COLOR]

Defense:
This statistic determines how well your Great Dragon can resist damage. Higher Defense stats means your Dragon will take less damage from attacks directed at it. This stat does not reduce the damage taken directly, but rather mitigates damage on a sliding scale.

Life:
This statistic describes how much damage the Dragon can take before being removed from battle. If it takes damage, cumulative or otherwise, equal to or greater than the total Life, that Dragon will not participate in further combat rounds. Great Dragons Heal over time after combat. The more Life your Dragon loses in battle, the longer it takes to heal. Researching higher levels of Aerial Combat helps reduce the Healing/Recovery time.

Speed:
This describes not only how quickly the Great Dragon can march but also their order of attack and how fast they close the distance between them and enemy troops during combat. All armies march at the slowest speed of any unit in the army, which is usually ATs or Giants. Combat begins at the farthest Range any troop can successfully attack another. At the beginning of each combat round, troops have the ability to move forward to confront enemy troops. All Dragons will move their Speed unless they are in range to attack an enemy.

Range:
This is the distance at which your Great Dragon can attack. Higher Range is better. Great Dragons have a Range of 1500 or more, meaning they can attack from a distance without closing in on enemy troops. Soem Dragons can attack from slightly farther away then other Dragons. Dont get this stat confused with "Ranged," they are separate and distinct values.

Load:
This describes how much loot or plunder your Great Dragon can carry. Great Dragons are NOT baggage handlers, they do not carry cargo or luggage. So all Great Dragons have a Load of 0.


NOTE: For how to get the eggs and the amour for the Great Dragons look under Anthropus Item Drops Guide

Minor/Special Dragons:


([COLOR="red"]*[/COLOR][COLOR="orange"]A[/COLOR][COLOR="red"]*[/COLOR] Coming Soon [COLOR="red"]*[/COLOR][COLOR="orange"]A[/COLOR][COLOR="red"]*[/COLOR])